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Martin
Besides many test devices, Martin now has his fourth own 3D printer running and prints as a hobby for friends, family and himself. He is happy to share his experience with each new article.
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In the product section of 3D printers with a good price-performance ratio, the Ender 3* from Creality cannot be missed. There are only a few models where the buyer gets good quality for a low price.
After the launch of the basic Ender 3 model, the manufacturer improved the device and released two advanced versions, the Ender 3 Pro* and the Ender 3 V2.
Compared to the first model, the Pro version has been equipped with a more stable frame and extruder, as well as a quieter power supply and a magnetic printing bed with a textured surface.
The Ender 3 V2 has a tempered silicon carbide glass bed, HD color screen, and a better motherboard, among other things.
Both the original and later versions of the Creality Ender 3 have the same build volume and dimensions. For printing in a clean environment, as well as protection from external influences, the installation of a printer enclosure is recommended.
We examine and describe all the options for expanding the Ender versions with a corresponding enclosure and give tips for the right choice of protection for your own peripherals.
These are the best Ender 3 (V2 & Pro) enclosures:
Contents
Due to meaningful improvements and enhancements, the Ender 3 Pro* and the Ender 3 V2 are the more technically advanced 3D printers of the Ender 3* series from Creality.
With a working area of x x mm, they have the same build volume as the original.
Before we tell you about the different options for a printer enclosure, you should know what the advantage of such an enclosure is and whether it makes sense for your purposes.
The most important aspects of this consideration are:
As you can see, there are many reasons to purchase an enclosure for a 3D printer. What about the requirement for the necessary material?
When choosing the material for an enclosure, you can basically use anything that is ideally transparent and non-flammable, such as glass or Plexiglas. FDM printers in particular, such as the Ender 3 Pro or V2, are operated at higher temperatures in the printing area. This can increase the risk of fire when using flammable materials.
In the following text, we present three inexpensive variants for DIY constructions.
The previously mentioned ideal materials glass or plexiglass are relatively expensive to purchase and it also takes some skill to process them.
One of the cheapest enclosures for an Ender 3 Pro or V2 is made of mats.
You may be familiar with floor mats* made of soft, rubbery material often used for floors in children&#;s corners or even playrooms.
The colored square elements have serrations on all sides with which they can be inserted into each other. Six of these mats are needed and assembled around the printer to form a cube. The material is soft and non-flammable, and even when purchased new, the cost is in the low double-digit range.
The advantage lies in the ease of assembly and disassembly. The disadvantage here is opacity. Unfortunately, there is no possibility to monitor the printer visually.
The small side table or bedside table Lack from IKEA* makes an excellent base for a printer housing. It is also popular among 3D printers for the Prusa i3 printer*.
The inexpensive table serves as a basic structure and must be prepared with an additional bottom plate or three side walls and a door made of acrylic panels*.
Acrylic is excellent for thermal insulation. In combination with the wood of the model from IKEA, the thermal insulation drops, but is sufficient for printing with ABS materials*, for example. Depending on the price of the acrylic sheets, you&#;re looking at between 40 and 70 bucks with this version.
Amazon also offers complete kits* based on the Lack table. The advantage of this enclosure is the stability and visibility from all sides despite the moderate cost.
Furthermore, the enclosure can be additionally expanded as desired with various lighting devices, displays, fume hoods, etc.
The disadvantage here is the long construction time, which requires some craftsmanship.
Another inexpensive way to build the cabinet yourself is its own construction from wood, acrylic and appropriate fasteners. The assembly is similar to the use of the LACK table from IKEA. Only the wooden construction you have to cut and assemble yourself from wooden boards and strips.
The advantage is the flexibility of the material wood, which only needs to be sawn and drilled. In contrast to the LACK table, you can adjust the size of the wooden construction specifically to your needs. The disadvantages of this solution are the costs up to the lower three-digit range and the high amount of work.
Regardless of the nature of your custom design, there are a few basic considerations you should keep in mind when designing it.
You will notice that wood is an excellent working material. However, you should not underestimate the flammability of wood.
Here, it is important not to design too tightly and to plan sufficient distance to the heatable printer bed and the extruder as the largest heat sources and, if necessary, to attach temperature sensors to the housing for monitoring.
When using flame retardant plastics such as acrylic or glass, you can reduce the spacing accordingly.
If you frequently use high-emission filaments such as ABS, we recommend that you include an exhaust system, filters and a discharge to fresh air in the design. This protects your health.
When designing the enclosure, you should consider the influence of temperature development in the assembly area on other elements of the printer.
After the start of the printing process, the temperature in the working area of the printer can rise enormously. The enclosure favors a temperature buildup and consequently a temperature rise.
High temperatures have a negative effect on the performance of electrical components. Therefore, you should place sensitive components of the printer such as power supply, control boards and digital displays or touch panels outside the housing if possible.
This minimizes the risks of malfunction or destruction of printer elements.
You also need to consider a material with a low melting point, such as PLA. Higher temperatures can reduce the quality of the raw material in the filament spool.
In this case, the filament spool should be placed outside the housing or protected from the effects of heating in the assembly area.
If you&#;re more of a user who prefers a ready-made solutions for the Ender 3 Pro or V2, you can choose between these three models:
These are presented in more detail in the following three sections.
Let&#;s first take a look at what the manufacturer of the Ender 3 offers. With dimensions of x x mm, the Creality enclosure (hands-on review) is generously sized. You can use it for the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, V2 and the Ender 5*.
The construction is more reminiscent of a tent. It consists of a thin tubular frame (diameter 16 mm) of aluminum-like material, on which a fabric is pulled.
The material is non-combustible due to the use of aluminum film on the inside and protects against noise.
Only the door of the enclosure is made of a transparent plastic and equipped with a zipper.
You can quickly assemble and disassemble the enclosure and fold it for convenient storage when not in use.
In addition, the plastic-like fabric is equipped with pockets on the outside. In these, you can store tools or utensils for the printer.
This product has the advantage of quick mobile use, which means you can stow or use it as you wish.
The disadvantage is the light and inflexible construction. You can&#;t attach anything to the construction or adjust it to your liking. An extension with a trigger or sensors is impossible.
Beyond that, you only have the option of watching the print progress from the front.
Creality&#;s version is suitable for the following cases:
The American company has found a gap in the market in the production of housings and accessories for 3D printers and specializes in this.
The 3DUpFitters enclosure* itself consists exclusively of 3 and 3 mm thick acrylic material and fasteners. This gives you a perfect all-round view of your Ender 3.
The filament spool holder is separate and electronic components are protected from overheating by small built-in fans.
In addition, the manufacturer has a variety of additional options such as LED lights, temperature indicators or filters in the program.
Delivery is in kit form and assembly with the help of instructions.
The advantage of this system solution is that 3DUpFitters has created a perfectly thought-out solution for all applications and options. The housings are made to measure and matched to the individual models. Even different model versions e.g. at the Ender 3 V1 and Ender 3 V2 with different power supply have been considered in the design with or without fan, so you have to pay attention exactly which version you have and order.
The stability and convenience with hinges for the door speaks for a long life of this system.
Of course, customized enclosures also have their price and that is the only drawback with this solution. With this product, you are buying the top of the line enclosure. Especially with the Ender 3 Pro or V2 you spend as much as for the 3D printer itself.
You should choose the 3DUpFitters enclosure under the following conditions:
The company Wham Bam Systems specializes in the production of build plates and enclosures for 3D printers. The HotBox V2* is a mix of Creality&#;s lightweight mobile version and 3DUpFitters&#; customized stationary enclosure. The system has no substructure.
It is made of lightweight honeycomb panels encased in high quality nylon and coated with a fire-resistant material. The front of the cube has a large window that can be opened together with the top plate to gain full access to the printer.
With the internal volume of x x mm, the box can be universally applied to all Ender 3 versions, Ender 2, Prusa MK2 and MK3*, or Mini, Anycubic i3 Mega* and many other models.
Compared to Creality&#;s solution, the HotBox V2 has the advantage of already having a built-in thermometer in the top plate and 3 inputs and outputs each for cables on the left, right and rear walls. For devices with direct drive and the filament spool on the printer, there are built-in channels for the spool holder and for the filament supply. Despite the ease of assembly and stowability, this housing solution has the advantages of higher stability and flexibility for adaptation to different printer systems, expansion with LED lighting, etc.
The disadvantage of Wham Bam Systems&#; HotBox V2 is the lack of visual transparency during printing. Visual inspection from the side, top or back is not possible.
The HotBox V2 is suitable for all needs that do not clearly fall into the category of the Creality solution or the luxury version. It is a compromise of both types of housings.
Of course, you should always make your decision with the available budget in mind.
Due to the constant evolution and the speed of the developments of new devices for the 3D printer market, the focus here must also be on your preference.
For example, if you own an Ender 3 V2 as an entry-level unit and need a permanent enclosure for your application, the stationary version of 3DUpFitters is an obvious choice.
However, if you already have plans to purchase a more professional or advanced device, we recommend that you still opt for a low-cost mobile enclosure version.
Taking into account the temperature behavior during printing and the personal requirements for a suitable housing for the Ender 3 Pro or V2, there are still a large number of deviating possible solutions beyond the 6 versions presented so far.
Here are some examples of this:
If you don&#;t have a budget, for example, you can make a simple enclosure out of cardboard boxes and place it over the printer. Cut out the necessary windows and replace the openings with acrylic or plastic film, which can be found in any household or sometimes even in recyclable waste. You should be very generous with the volume so that all the components of the periphery have room and the resulting heat will not be a problem.
If you&#;re unsure about the temperature, you can install a smoke detector* for very little money.
All other adjustments can be made quickly and easily with additional cutouts in the cardboard. This would then be the remanufactured housing version for the 3D printer.
Another alternative are so-called photo or light tents* for close-up photos of objects. These products are already equipped with uniform interior lighting and are available in numerous sizes.
Only as the name suggests, they are lightweight mobile tents that do not allow static change. In addition, the fabrics used are usually highly flammable, so you should be very generous with the size of the interior volume.
The inventiveness in the 3D printer forums knows no bounds.
Based on the conditions for a transparent material, which must be flame retardant and tight, an inventor came up with the idea of using common plastic boxes, for example, from IKEA*.
These are often used in the home for storing things or toys and come in a wide variety of sizes.
A larger plastic box for the printer is placed upside down over the printer. If necessary, cutouts for the cable and filament spool are made with scissors or a knife.
The filament spool can then be enclosed in another smaller plastic container. This keeps costs within limits and also eliminates concerns about the flammability of the material.
As already described in the section on how to use a new LACK table from IKEA, the self-construction can be made from a new piece of furniture.
However, reusing or converting from old furniture is also a welcome alternative for building a printer enclosure.
Disused cabinets or tables are usually suitable for this purpose. When using cabinets, you may need to replace the cabinet door with a glass or Plexiglas window to monitor the printing process.
If you don&#;t have any old furniture available yourself, it&#;s also a good idea to look at flea markets, decluttering events or recycle stores.
Also pay attention to temperature control with these solutions and the cost you incur by buying used materials.
If you don&#;t do the math here, you may find that you could have purchased a ready-made solution for the same amount of money.
The natural renewable raw material from the forest is ideal for your own construction. But that doesn&#;t mean you can&#;t or shouldn&#;t use any other raw material. We have described examples of acrylic, cardboard, soft foam or plastic in the previous sections.
But you can also use, for example, metal, bamboo, stone types or other materials.
For the purpose of noise insulation, you should consider the respective vibration properties. But a metal case with sound insulation panels in the interior would also be an imaginable solution.
You should be aware of the fire hazard with easily combustible materials. With appropriate precautions such as a smoke detector or temperature monitoring, you can also use flammable materials such as cardboard.
Due to the constant further development and the already existing numerous extensions for the Ender 3 Pro and V2, we recommend that you plan enough space for modifications. Furthermore, it makes sense to choose a material that is easy to work with, where you can quickly drill a hole or attach cables.
Generally, very few 3D printer manufacturers have their own enclosures on offer. The reason for this is the open community, which publishes corresponding ideas and prototypes in the forums in a short time, where e.g. Creality itself cannot keep up. The company focuses on the further development of the 3D printer itself instead of its accessories.
The speed of further development of the company&#;s own product range also has a strong influence on the space required.
In most cases, the volume required for the enclosure changes with an expanded or revised version of the printer. For example, if the filament spool bearing is moved from the crosshead above the build area to an external position, the dimensions change.
These two reasons alone speak against the development of an own static enclosure for the Ender 3 Pro or V2. Here, the chance for smaller, fast-acting companies such as 3DUpFitters to discover a gap in the market and make a profit is much greater.
There are many reasons to provide your own Ender 3 Pro or Ender 3 V2 with an appropriate enclosure. The homogeneous temperature distribution in the working area, protection against dust from outside, and the containment of odor and particle emissions during printing are the most important.
There are also countless buyble options available.
Here, each user must decide for himself whether the self-built enclosure made of recycled cardboard is sufficient, a mobile purchased solution from the manufacturer or the fixed adapted version is the best.
Price-wise, the range goes from free to where the investment for the enclosure becomes more expensive than the Ender 3 itself.
Strategically, it is worthwhile in any case to start with a free or inexpensive homemade enclosure and expand it or exchange it for a more professional one when the opportunity arises.
Unless the Ender 3 Pro or V2 is used for presentations in front of an audience or in lectures. Then the static acrylic version of 3DUpFitters should be considered because here the best visualization is given.
Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC and other Affiliate Programs. These are affiliate advertising programs designed to enable websites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com and others. Links marked with * are affiliate links.
A few days ago, I posted about putting my new Creality Ender 3 V2 into a Creality tent enclosure. In that post, I noted that at first, I wasn&#;t sure if I wanted to move the electronics out of the enclosure. After testing some prints using ABS, I determine I probably should move the electronics out. The inside of the enclosure got quite warm. I don&#;t want to take out my power supply or motherboard with heat when I could easily prevent that by moving the electronics.
This article will be the first in a series of posts about the process I&#;m going through to get the electronics moved out of the enclosure. Plus, I will be lining the inside of the enclosure with LED strips. The LED strips and my Raspberry Pi 4b will be powered utilizing the printer&#;s power supply. All of the above steps will be included in this series of posts. I did not follow any guide that currently exists out on the Internet. I wanted to see how easy this whole process would be with no guidance. Hopefully, this post will help anyone who wishes to do the same with their Ender 3 V2.
Starting, I removed the easy stuff. I recommend removing the following:
I also removed the display mount from the printer. An easy way to take it off is to remove the profile cover in front of the holder. Then the three screws can be loosened, and the whole display holder will slide right out. I put the display holder to the side, as it might be handy when designing an external case for the electronics.
The motherboard cover is under the printer&#;s chassis. Four screws must be removed from the motherboard housing to gain access to the motherboard. The first screw is on top of the motherboard housing underneath the bed.
The cover has three screws holding it in place on the 3d printer&#;s bottom side. The single screw towards the rear of the printer is larger than the other two.
The fan from the cover will need to be disconnected. Note where it plugs into the motherboard. It is labeled K-FAN2 on the board.
At this time, I cut all the cable ties from wiring hooked up to the motherboard. They will do nothing at this point but get in the way.
I started to do this with the screws holding the motherboard in place. That worked OK… until it didn&#;t. The connectors come from the factory with a glob of hot glue. Removing that hot glue from my other two printers in the past was easy. This time around, they seemed to use a bit more hot glue. It was much easier to remove those globs of hot glue with the motherboard removed from the case.
First, disconnect the ribbon cable. Once the hot glue is off, it comes off quite easily.
Then remove the four stepper motor connectors. The cables and motherboard headers are all labeled with which motor they pair with: E, X, Y, or Z.
It was at this point I realized taking the motherboard out will make this much more manageable. I&#;ve marked with the four screws are in the picture below.
I then removed the rest of the wires with connectors. Here is the order I cleared off the motherboard.
Now it is time to disconnect wires from the terminal block. To make this easier, I labeled each wire from 1 to six. Then I removed the two input wires from the two-pin terminal block.
Here is what each of the wires is in the six-pin terminal block going from right to left as pictured below:
The red and black cables in the two-in terminal block go to the power supply. The motherboard does have positive and negative marks.
The motherboard is now free. I put the motherboard in an anti-static bag I had laying around and put it to the side with the display taken off earlier.
To clear the cables out of the motherboard case, you will have to open the case&#;s top cover just enough to get those wires through.
At this point, the motherboard case should be empty. I chose to remove the fan from the motherboard cover to use in my external case. The fan doesn&#;t do any good without the motherboard there.
Now the motherboard cover can be put back on. These screws were taken out earlier, and the pictures of those can be found towards the beginning of this post. There is one screw under the heated bed and three under the printer.
All that is left of this teardown is to remove the power supply! There are four screws under the printer that must be removed. Be careful when taking these off. Once the screws are gone, the power supply is no longer connected, but there are wires still going through the power supply housing going back to the printer.
Now you&#;ll want to remove two screws from the bottom of the power supply housing and one from the top. See pictures below. Doing so will allow the power supply cover to be removed.
The power supply cover is now off.
Now remove the four screws from the top of the power supply housing.
The power supply is no longer connected to the power supply housing. But there is still wiring going from the power supply to the chassis for the power cord and power switch. I left those connected so I could use the power supply housing outside of the enclosure. Any stepper motor or end stop cables can be removed from the power supply housing at this time.
I used the four screws to hook the power supply back up to the power supply housing. I had only taken the power supply out to free printer cabling. Since I plan to use the housing outside of the enclosure I wanted to put it back together so I wouldn&#;t lose screws.
I also put the four screws that connected the power supply housing to the printer back into the printer. Some day I may want to hook this back up how it was, and having those screws there will be handy.
The teardown has now been completed. Technically there are still some electronics left on the printer. There are the stepper motors, end stops, thermistors, heater cartridges, and hotend fans. Those parts should withstand the heating better. The only concern for heat now is the stepper motor. But later on, when this all gets connected back up, I will be putting heatsinks on each of the stepper motors.
I have to admit this process took longer than I thought it would. The overdone hot glue on the motherboard slowed me down. I think it took longer to remove the motherboard connections than it took to do the rest of the process.
OK, this Barry McGuire song is more political than anything. But after tearing the printer apart, I couldn&#;t help but think of this song.
Since I&#;m choosing classic songs that don&#;t have to do with the post, here is an excellent cover of The Byrd&#;s Eight Miles High by Golden Earring.
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Worried that print quality coming from the open-framed Ender 3(Pro) or Ender 3 V2 and Ender 5 will be negatively affected by the external environment?
No need to fear, the 3D printer enclosure is here!
3D Printer Enclosure Advantage:
- Quick and easy installation： Folding storage, easy to carry, multi-faceted observation, reserved tool pockets. Economical 3D printing room!
- Constant Temperature: Keep a constant temperature printing environment, reduce the impact of printed products when low-- temperature weather, improve printing stability.
- Dustproof and good noise reduction： The interior uses Pure aluminum film and flame retardant appearance material. Technically, if in a fire, it will melt and not fire itself of the enclosure, and will not spread.
- Stable Structure: Equipped with a selection of Iron pipes, stable structure, and abundant space.
Applicable: Ender 3 3D Printer/Ender 3 PRO/Ender 5 3D Printer/Ender 3 V2
Storage Size: Xx
Land Size: xx
Iron pipes Diameter: 16MM
Package Included:
Iron pipesx4 / Iron pipesx4 / Iron pipesx4 / fixed-angle bracketx8 / folding shed x1
Function: Constant temperature / Soundproof / Dustproof
3D printer keeps a constant temperature printing environment, allowing for much more stable temperatures once the printer is operating.
Quick and easy installation, folding storage, with reserved tool pockets, easy to carry(lb), and multifaceted observation.
The interior uses pure aluminum film and flame retardant appearance material and will not fire itself of the enclosure and will not spread as well.
The fight was short-lived. I was too exhausted during the day to put up a decent resistance. Only one muscle was tense.
You will know a lot, you will sleep worse. I said my favorite phrase. - Tell me later. he laughed, pricking fries on a fork. - I'll tell you, I'll tell you.
