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Staples lettering: Numbers, Letters & Stencils | staples.ca

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Paper Matters! How to Choose the Right Paper – Amanda Arneill

We’ve all been there. You’ve researched, asked questions and finally pulled the trigger on your first order of pens so that you too can learn hand lettering and they have arrived. The heavens have parted, a ray of sun is shining down directly on your doorstep as you hold the box above your head victorious. Now you too will be able to create and post gorgeously lettered designs on your Instagram feed. You will make all of your own cards. You will hand-letter your wedding vows. Not one piece of art in your home will be created by anyone other than you.

But wait! It’s not just having the right pens that makes the difference, the right paper is just as important for your finished product (and maybe even more so!).

So back away from your pens and read this post because the information here will help your pens to last longer, stay in great condition and perform their best for you for as long as possible.

THE LIFE OF A PEN

First of all, you need to realize that pens are consumable items. Just like pencils, that you have to sharpen and you can see growing smaller and smaller, the ink inside the pens is a finite thing. These pens won’t last you forever, but they can last for longer than you think. On average, I go through one pen a month. (This number is based on the pens that I recommend. For more about what pens to use, check out this post here. If we’re talking about Brush Tip Sharpies, I go through at least one pen with every project that I use it for.).

When I started hand lettering, I saw everyone talking about how you can just use regular printer paper for your lettering and I won’t call those people liars. You can use regular printer paper but your ink won’t last as long and the tips of your pens will fray (this is especially true in the case of Tombow Dual Brush Markers or Faber-Castell brush markers). Here’s why…

It’s all about the paper.

PAPER DIFFERENCES

Each type of paper that you use is different. Sometimes you can even feel a difference between different papers simply by running your hand over the surface of the paper. Some paper is more textured or more grainy and other paper feels smoother. If you are the pen, those differences are multiplied ten fold.

When I was thinking about how to best describe what is happening, I was driving my car and I realized that a car analogy would fit perfectly. Just go with me on this and, don’t worry, I will never give you car advice! So, imagine that your car is the pen. When it writes over the rough or bumpy paper, it is just like driving over a logging road or a road littered with potholes. You’re getting bumped around, heaven only knows what is happening to your suspension and you may end up with a flat tire. It’s the same for your pen nib.

Now you’re driving through a field of trees (you’re a crazy driver!). The tree branches are scraping up against the side of your car. You can hear the high pitched scream of the tips as they drag over your pristine paint job. By the time you get to the other side of the tree field, the outside of your car is scraped up and there are paint curls hanging off of it. This exact thing happens to your pen nib when you write on paper that has any sort of long, threadlike paper fibres.

Paper fibres? What are you talking about? I just use regular paper, not textured paper!

If you just thought that, think again!

WHY DO FIBRES MATTER?

I’m assuming that we all know that paper is made of trees. Those mashed up trees are processed in different ways to create paper. I got all super scientific and decided to put my university degree to use by checking out the paper in my house under a light microscope and here is what I found.

While you can see fibres in each of them, the fibre types are different.

I looked at the 4 different papers that I use or have used in the past. When I started, I would use plain printer paper (bottom right). I even went out and got the “nice” stuff. But my pens would scratch and skip across the page. It was awful.

I figured I would step it up a notch and I used my Michael’s card stock that came in packs of 25 or 50 (bottom left), but the same sort of thing happened and I was getting really discouraged.

When I wrote on my envelopes, it seemed alright, but after doing many envelopes (top right) in a row, my pens would start to fray.

I remembered a paper sample that a printer had sent me and he had labelled the different pages with their paper finish type. It was a bit of a Goldilocks situation. The glossy paper was too glossy and the ink smeared over the surface, the matte paper sucked at the pen but the “smooth” paper was just right (top left). I started to wonder about what “smooth” meant for paper because I assumed that all of my paper was smooth. Yet, I ran my fingers across the surface of the paper and I could feel a difference!

WHAT IS SMOOTH PAPER?

When paper is made, the paper fibres are blended up and then pressed into sheets of paper. Sometimes a texture is added (for linen paper) or a coating is placed over it (for glossy paper). With smooth paper, the fibres are not as long or as coarse and it is pressed through another machine while it is drying. This causes it to have less “tooth.” Tooth is the amount of roughness that a paper has. While the difference in tooth might be negligible to the touch, the difference on your pen is massive!

To get back to my super scientific research with the microscope, if you look through the different quadrants, you can see varying degrees of long, threadlike fibres and, to continue along in the dental vein, these fibres are like sharp teeth tearing into your pens. They will slowly pull apart the felt tip of your pen, causing there to be frayed areas on your nib which will ruin the perfect lines that you need to create stunning brush lettering.

Smooth paper on the other hand, doesn’t have those long fibres, which will help to keep your nibs intact for much, much longer.

When I figured out (through some expensive trial and error) how much longer my pens would last if I only used smooth paper, I got rid of all of my printer paper and my packs of paper from Michael’s and went hunting for high quality smooth heavy weight paper. I went for heavy weight because I knew how much nicer is it to get a piece of art on heavy card versus having art given to you on a piece of paper that could have been grabbed off of your desk! And I found what I thought was the perfect solution – packs of smooth finish card stock at Staples. It was affordable, made my pens last and I could pop down to the store and grab it easily. Yay!! Now I would tell you all to go out and get that but I want to add one more point to consider.

PAPER PURPOSE

Answer this question: Do you plan to keep what you are making or are you going to throw it away?

Unless you want to place it in the recycling bin, you absolutely must get smooth, acid-free, archival safe paper. That’s why I had bought the paper from Michaels! I knew that acid-free, archival paper would last without getting yellow over time and I wanted what I created to look beautiful even years from now. That Staples paper is NOT acid-free. I searched and searched and finally found smooth acid-free, archival paper that I could buy to create all of my designs on. It is so heavy weight that it even works nicely with my Dr Ph Martin watercolours and has the smooth finish that I need for my pens to last and flow wonderfully. The only downside is that it comes as 11″x17″ sheets. But do you know what one 11″x17″ sheet turns into when it’s cut in half? Two 8.5″x11″ sheets!! What?! It’s like it was meant to be!

So now that I have shared my journey, I will share my treasure. Here is the paper that I use for all of my finished pieces. Every time. All the time.

Lynx FSC – Certified Cover Stock Smooth Finish, 11″x17″, 250 pack. I’ll make it even easier for you and give you links to the paper as well.

In the States, you can get it here.
In Canada, order yours from Staples here.

WARNING!

Now, you should be warned that my pens also might last a long time because I don’t always use them. I do a lot of lettering practice with a pencil (a lot!) and I also use some other techniques that I will tell you about next time.

Until then, happy writing!

xo

Amanda

Bulletin Board Letters Made Easy (3 Steps)

Since my classroom is my students’ and my home away from home, I try to make it as welcoming, inviting, and full of inspiration as possible. This year, I decided to change things up and try DIY bulletin board ideas to get my classroom ready for my newest group of students.

After a trip to Target and seeing all of the cute $1 borders and classroom decor’, I became inspired to make purposeful bulletin boards without ordering expensive letter sets that require me to punch out, sort, organize, and store.  The letters never look as good with staple holes when they are re-used anyway!

Since I will leave my three bulletin boards up for the entire year, I decided to use PowerPoint to create my letters.  Here is how easy it is to create your own bulletin board letters:

Step #1:

  • Open PowerPoint
  • Click on DESIGN
  • Set the width to 11 in.
  • Set the height to 8.5 in.

Step #2:

  • Determine the font you want to use.  My current favorite is AG Fonts Sorry Not Sorry
  • Size the font so that it takes up as much of the page as possible (mine letters were size 605)

Step #3:

  • Make a NEW SLIDE for each letter
  • Type out all of the letters in your display

Step #4:

  • I make my slideshow into a PDF because I send my bulletin board letters to Staples to be printed.   The ink and paper provided by their copy service center is perfect.
  • Click SAVE AS
  • Click on MORE OPTIONS
  • Click on PDF
  • Click SAVE
  • By creating a PDF document, your font will stay in place no matter where you print your letters.

Step #5:

  • Print your letters.
  • As mentioned above, I upload mine to the Staples site and pick them up when they are ready.  Black and white copies are around 10 cents each.  In addition, the quality is far better than my own printer.  Since I am using the display for the year, it is well-worth the money.

Step #6:

With my letters cut out, on-sale fabric for the background, and $1 borders from Target to add pizzazz, I am ready to get my bulletin boards up and ready for class!

>>> Like this idea? Check out my ELA Word Wall for Middle School on TPT.

How to order large Engineer Prints (for $7 or less!)

Have you ever used Engineer Prints?

They’ve been a staple in my decorating for the last 10 years because they’re so inexpensive!

What is an Engineer Print?

They’re printed on large piece of regular paper (no thick card stock or beautiful matte paper here – we’re talking thin printer paper here) and they cost only a few dollars. They’re available in black and white, which is a little cheaper, or color for a few dollars more.

In the past, you’ve been able to use engineer prints for photos – I printed the print in the photo below as an engineering print and it cost me a whopping $12 for that full color engineer print, but many places like Staples are coming down on printing photos on engineering prints because it takes so much ink and ends up being really expensive for them.

It’s not consistent across the board, so it’s worth calling your local Staples or other office supply store and see if they’ll still do it for you.

If they’ll let you print engineer prints for photos, that’s fantastic. 

If not, there are a million other uses for engineer prints. For more simple art (say, any of the free book quote art prints here!), engineer prints are perfect.

I used Staples Engineering prints for my black and white world map and then added gold lettering with a gold sharpie, I used it to print a US map that I hung in our play space in our North Carolina house (I used metallic sharpies on top of the text at the top to add some color) , and I used an engineer print as a stencil to make this colorful world map.

I’ve printed holiday prints with engineer prints (you can see a big Christmas one here that I did a few years ago in the first photo) and to print big summer calendars.

The point is, I LOVE engineer prints.

Where to Order Engineer Prints

I’ve always used Staples Engineering Prints, but Office Depot also has them for the same price (although for a 24×36, you only have the option to get it delivered – they won’t do it in store for you).

FedEx Kinkos will also do engineer prints, although they’re slightly more expensive (about $11 for a 24×36 black and white, instead of $7-8 like a Staples Engineering Print).

Also, I’ve linked to each of the correct pages for those stores, but some of them call them Blueprints or Construction Prints or Architectural Prints instead of Engineering Prints if you’re having a hard time finding them.

A step by step guide to ordering a Staples Engineering Print

  1. Go to the Staples Engineering Print page. At the bottom, select the size you want (the price will change depending on what size you choose).
  2. Choose whether you want color or black & white and click “Buy Now.”
  3. On the screen that pops up, choose “Add Files” from the top left corner and then select “Upload files.” Choose your image (you can use a PDF or a JPG), then press “Upload.” When it’s completely uploaded, choose “Done.”
  4. Your image may look wonky on the display. On the left menu bar, choose “Orientation” and change to portrait or landscape, depending on the orientation of your file. If it’s still not looking right, choose “Media” from that same toolbar and then select the right size of printing and then click the “Fit Content to Paper” option and then click “Done.”
  5. Name your Job in the left hand toolbar (the name doesn’t really matter – I usually do something like “Janssen’s World Map”).
  6. Choose “Add to Cart” in the bottom right hand corner.
  7. If everything in your cart looks good, click “proceed to checkout” and select “Pick Up in Store.
  8. Choose your date for pickup (it’ll usually charge you a rush fee for same-day, so I always choose the first free day and then call in after my order has been placed and ask if they can do it that day for me. They’ve never said no) and then your store.
  9. I choose “Pay at Store” but you can also pay online if you’d rather.
  10. When it’s ready, go pick it up and you’re ready to roll!

Any other questions about Engineer Prints?

Stay tuned because I have a really fun way to use these engineering prints coming on Monday – I can hardly wait to show you!

If you liked this post about how to order Staples engineering prints, you might like these posts too:

Tyvek ® FAQ | DuPont ™ Tyvek ®

Building envelope FAQ

Welcome to the DuPont Tyvek® WB FAQ page. We’ve compiled answers about the proper installation, reasons for selecting Tyvek® weatherization products, energy efficiency, and more.

Whether you are a building professional or building owner, we hope you’ll find the information you need here. If you don’t see what you’re looking for, please contact us, using the link above.

Top questions:

– What is a building envelope system?
– Is a weather barrier like Tyvek® WB still useful if I install insulation?
– Is DuPont Tyvek® a vapor barrier?

–Can I use a Tyvek® weather barrier in combination with a vapor barrier?
– Do Tyvek®  weather barriers have an R-value?
– Can housewrap make a house too tight?

How to specify and install Tyvek

®  materials:

– Can DuPont Tyvek®  WB be installed with foam insulation products?

– Can you install Tyvek® WB with the lettering facing inwards or upside down? 

– Can Tyvek® weather barrier be installed vertically, instead of horizontally (drop it down from the top)?

– Is there really an advantage to using DuPont Tyvek® Tape?

– How long should Tyvek®  WB be exposed before it is covered with siding?

– Is it necessary to remove old building paper, or even old Tyvek®, before applying a new layer of Tyvek®?

– Should Tyvek® weather barrier be placed over or under building sheathing?

– Is Tyvek® WB necessary over foam board?

– Can a Tyvek® weather barrier be used under any primary façade?

– Can Tyvek® be used on roofs? Under floors?

– Can I use Tyvek® HomeWrap® under stucco?

– Can Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, Tyvek® DrainWrap® or Tyvek CommercialWrap® D be used under brick?

– Can a Tyvek® weather barrier be used as flashing?

– What type of fasteners are recommended when installing Tyvek® weather barrier?

– What are the recommended sealants for use with Tyvek® weather barriers?

– Can Tyvek® WB be used under cedar siding?
– How many rolls of Tyvek® WB are required for a typical two-story house? 

Why choose DuPont

Tyvek® weatherization products?

–What is the difference between a DuPont Tyvek® weather barrier and black paper?

– What is the difference between DuPont Tyvek® weather barriers and other weather barriers?

– Will duct tape work as well as Tyvek® Tape?

– Does using a DuPont Tyvek® weather barrier help make buildings more energy efficient?

– Can using a DuPont Tyvek® weather barrier help improve indoor air quality?

– What is the impact of the building envelope system on energy efficiency?

– Overall, what makes DuPont Tyvek® weather barriers different from other products?

Top questions

What is a building envelope system?

A building envelope system is the physical separation between the interior and exterior of a building. Tyvek® weather barriers and related products, like sealants and flashing tape, are used to help create a building envelope system for homes and commercial buildings.  Tyvek® can reduce air and water infiltration to help prevent drafts and water damage. But it is also vapor permeable, to allow water vapor to escape when it does get into walls. Advantages a building envelope can provide include protection against water damage, improved energy efficiency, increased comfort, and reduced building maintenance.

Is a weather barrier like Tyvek

® WB still useful if I install insulation?

Yes. The installed R-value of insulation is only realized if the air within the wall cavity stays still and dry. An average 8-mph wind can easily penetrate cracks and crevices, even in new homes. You could be losing up to 30% of the performance of your insulation. DuPont Tyvek® weather barriers are designed to help block air from getting inside walls. Properly installed, they help keep drafts out and protect your insulation’s rated R-value.

In addition, Tyvek® weather barriers help keep bulk water out, to help protect insulation in walls of both residential and commercial buildings. At the same time, DuPont Tyvek® WB is made with unique material science, to allow moisture that does get into walls to escape as vapor. This combination can help prevent moisture-related problems, such as rot, corrosion, mold, and mildew.

Is DuPont

Tyvek® a vapor barrier?

No, DuPont Tyvek® is not a vapor barrier. It is made with unique material science to keep air and bulk water out while allowing moisture vapor inside walls to escape. 

Can I use a Tyvek

® weather barrier in combination with a vapor barrier?

Using a Tyvek® weather barrier in combination with a vapor barrier depends on how the rest of the wall system is constructed, and the climate the building is in. If the majority of the year is spent heating the home, where the inside temperature is greater than the outside, it is generally good to use a vapor retarder behind the interior drywall. In hot, humid climates, vapor barriers should not be used.

Do Tyvek

®  weather barriers have an R-value?

No; however, properly installed Tyvek® weather barriers help protect against loss of R-value in insulation due to wind washing. Even at wind speeds of 5 mph, a wall without an air barrier retains less than 40% of its original installed R-values.

In addition, Tyvek® ThermaWrap and Tyvek® ThermaWrap R5.0 can actually help increase the R-value of insulation. ThermaWrapTM is a metallized, weather resistive, insulating, breathable membrane designed to reflect radiant heat back into the wall in winter, and back out in summer.

Can housewrap make a house too tight?

With more energy efficient construction, “build tight, ventilate right” is the best practice. Mechanical ventilation is more important with today’s sophisticated energy saving home features. However, blower door testing on homes wrapped with DuPont™ Tyvek®  weather barrier show natural air exchange rates per hour that are well within acceptable guidelines per ASHRAE Standard 62.

How to Specify and Install Tyvek®  Materials

Can DuPont™ Tyvek®  WB be installed with foam insulation products?

Yes. DuPont™ Tyvek® is compatible, and can be installed with foam insulation products.  For specific inquiries, please contact us.

Can you install Tyvek® WB with the lettering facing inwards or upside down? 

Tyvek® HomeWrap®, Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, Tyvek® DrainWrap™ and Tyvek® CommercialWrap® are equally effective in both directions and the logo may be on the inside or outside. However, Tyvek® StuccoWrap® and Tyvek® DrainWrap™ have a specially engineered surface that should be placed with the grooves facing outwards in a vertical direction. 

Can Tyvek® weather barrier be installed vertically, instead of horizontally (drop it down from the top)?

DuPont™ Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, DrainWrap™ and CommercialWrap® D cannot be installed vertically.  Although the vertical (drop it down from the top) installation method is not recommended for DuPont HomeWrap®, ThermaWrap™ LE and CommercialWrap®, it is important to ensure that, if this method is used, the vertical seams overlap by at least 6 inches and are taped with DuPont™ Tyvek® Tape. This will provide the greatest level of air infiltration and bulk water holdout protection. Recommended installation instructions can be found on this website, or on the roll label affixed to the product.

Is there really an advantage to using DuPont™ Tyvek® Tape?

Yes. Taping the seams with Tyvek® Tape provides the best Tyvek®-to-Tyvek® adhesion, helping to provide optimal protection against air and bulk water penetration, and extra durability protection during the building’s construction phase.

How long should Tyvek®  WB be exposed before it is covered with siding?

Tyvek® HomeWrap® and Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, Tyvek® DrainWrap™ and Tyvek® ThermaWrap™ should be covered within 120 days (4 months). Tyvek® CommercialWrap®should be covered within 270 days (9 months).

Is it necessary to remove old building paper, or even old Tyvek®, before applying a new layer of Tyvek®?

No, it is not critical to remove building paper and/or Tyvek® prior to installing a Tyvek® weather barrier  However, it is necessary to carefully inspect for damaged areas that may not be clearly visible under building paper. Since building paper does not have the same breathability characteristics of Tyvek®, the wall may lose some of its ability to dissipate moisture to the outside if the paper is left on the wall.

If you suspect previously installed Tyvek® has been compromised – and for all other specific inquiries – please contact us.

Should Tyvek® weather barrier be placed over or under building sheathing?

DuPont™ Tyvek® weather barriers can be used either over or under sheathing. When Tyvek® is used under sheathing, it functions only as an air barrier, and does not protect the sheathing as a secondary weather barrier. Tyvek® has been used directly over studs where there is no sheathing, although use of sheathing is a highly recommended building practice.

Is Tyvek® WB necessary over foam board?

DuPont™ Tyvek® weather barriers add considerable protection against leaky seams in foam board, similar to the protection provided over wood sheathing. Foam boards alone, even interlocking foam boards, do not adequately stop air leakage due to wall movement from settling and thermal expansion and contraction.

Can a Tyvek® weather barrier be used under any primary façade?

Yes, DuPont™ Tyvek® WB can be used under any façade, including brick, stucco, vinyl, cedar siding, metal, and stone. Proper installation under each façade is essential to ensure Tyvek® provides the maximum level of air infiltration resistance and bulk water holdout.

Can Tyvek® be used on roofs? Under floors?

No, these uses are not recommended. All Tyvek® products in Canada and the U.S. have been tested and approved as products to be installed behind exterior walls.  However DuPont™ Tyvek® Protec™ provides a high-quality roof underlayment choice.

Can I use Tyvek® HomeWrap® under stucco?

Tyvek® StuccoWrap® is recommended under stucco because it has been specially designed to work with both traditional and synthetic stucco applications. The engineered surface, with special grooves, is designed to assist in drainage of incidental moisture that may penetrate the primary cladding in synthetic stucco systems.

Tyvek® HomeWrap® will also provide weather barrier characteristics in an EIFS wall system, but its drainage properties will differ. Therefore, in synthetic EIFS stucco systems, Tyvek® HomeWrap® can be used as the secondary weather barrier, but in conjunction with an additional drainage medium (either matte or grooved foam) to achieve the desired drainage characteristics.

Can Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, Tyvek® DrainWrap® or Tyvek CommercialWrap® D be used under brick?

Yes. It is perfectly acceptable to use Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, Tyvek® DrainWrap®or Tyvek® CommercialWrap® D under brick. Whether using Tyvek® HomeWrap®, Tyvek®CommercialWrap®, Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, or Tyvek® CommercialWrap® D under brick, it is important to follow the brick manufacturer’s guidelines regarding the use of an air space between the brick veneer and sheathing. Typically, this space is 1-2 inches, and will act as a drainage plane if incidental moisture penetrates the brick, in addition to ventilating behind the cladding, which aids in drying of the wall assembly.

Can a Tyvek® weather barrier be used as flashing?

Tyvek® weather resistive barriers have not been tested or approved as a flashing material. However, DuPont has introduced the DuPont™ Flashing System, which provides comprehensive protection from water leaks. It is designed to help direct water to the building exterior, instead of trapping it inside the wall system and causing water damage.

What type of fasteners are recommended when installing Tyvek® weather barrier?

DuPont™ Tyvek® WRBs can be installed using a variety of fasteners, and will depend on the application. To attach Tyvek® in wood frame construction, use DuPont™ Tyvek® Wrap Cap nails, DuPont™ Tyvek® Wrap Cap Staples, other cap staples for the Stinger™ Cap Stapler.   DuPont™ Tyvek® Wrap Cap screws and 1-1/4” or 2” metal gasketed washers with screws should be used for steel frame construction.  Masonry construction requires Tapcon® fasteners with 2’’ plastic caps.  When fastening on a temporary basis using other means of attachment, the permanent fastening system should be installed as soon as practically possible in order to maintain system integrity and performance.  When staples without caps are used to temporarily fasten DuPont™ Tyvek® WRBs, no more than 4 staples per square yard should be installed.  All staples should be sealed with DuPont™ Tyvek® Tape when the DuPont™ Tyvek® WRB is being installed for air barrier and high performance applications. 

What are the recommended sealants for use with Tyvek® weather barriers?

DuPont recommends DuPont™ Residential Sealant for residential installations.  For specific inquiries, please contact us.

Can Tyvek® WB be used under cedar siding?

Yes, Tyvek® DrainWrap™ can be used under cedar siding. It is recommended that the cedar siding be installed per manufacturer’s guidelines and recommendations by wood siding associations, such as the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. This requires priming all surfaces, including the back and ends, before installing. Additionally, the use of furring strips will help promote drainage of any incidental water that may penetrate the cedar cladding.

How many rolls of Tyvek® WB are required for a typical two-story house?

For a typical two-story, 2500-square-foot house, the general rule of thumb is that two rolls of Tyvek® size 9’ x 150’ should be adequate to wrap the house. However, this estimate may vary slightly, depending on the house elevation.

Why Choose DuPont

Tyvek® Weatherization Products?

What is the difference between a DuPont

Tyvek® weather barrier and black paper?

Black paper, or building paper, cannot match the unique material science of DuPont Tyvek® WB.  Unlike Tyvek®, building paper is not designed to block air flow, and can absorb water. Building paper tears more easily than Tyvek®, and can degrade over time when under continual exposure to water. Building papers are less permeable to moisture vapor transfer than Tyvek®, increasing the potential that moisture vapor trapped inside the wall could cause mold, mildew and rot.

What is the difference between DuPont

Tyvek® weather barriers and other weather barriers?

Many other wraps are perforated, which means that  in order for them to breathe, the manufacturer has punched holes in them, resulting in a reduction of air and water holdout effectiveness. DuPont Tyvek® WB is a non-perforated, nonwoven product with microscopic pores that are so small, air and bulk water have a difficult time passing through.  But since Tyvek® is breathable, moisture vapor can easily escape from the wall.

Will duct tape work as well as Tyvek

® Tape?

No. Duct tape is not designed to be used with Tyvek® sheet.  Tyvek® Tape has been specifically designed to work with Tyvek® products, and should be used in all situations when sealing of the Tyvek® seams is necessary.

Does using a DuPont

Tyvek® weather barrier help make buildings more energy efficient?

Tyvek® weather barriers can have a positive impact on energy efficiency by helping to control air and water intrusion in walls.  Properly installed Tyvek® weather barriers help protect against loss of R-value in insulation due to wind washing. Even at wind speeds of 5 mph, a wall without an air barrier retains less than 40% of its original installed R-values.

In addition, Tyvek® weather barriers help keep bulk water out, to help protect insulation in walls of both residential and commercial buildings.

Can using a DuPont

Tyvek® weather barrier help improve indoor air quality?

Tyvek® WB can improve indoor air quality by helping to reduce uncontrolled air leakage, which helps the HVAC system maintain comfortable temperatures; helping reduce the formation of mold by preventing bulk water intrusion into the wall system and allowing water vapor from inside the wall system to evaporate ; helping prevent external contaminants from entering the building.

What is the impact of the building envelope system on energy efficiency?

A 2005 National Institute of Standards and Technology study* indicates that a weather barrier, such as Tyvek® CommercialWrap®, can reduce building air leakage by as much as 85%, realizing up to a 40% savings in natural gas and up to a 25% savings in electricity, annually.

Overall, what makes DuPont

Tyvek® weather barriers different from other products?

Four properties are critical to optimal weather barrier performance for increased energy efficiency: durability, air resistance, water resistance, and vapor permeability.  Most products rate high in just one or two properties.  Only Tyvek® products deliver performance across all four properties, to help create sustainable buildings that cost less to operate, are easier to maintain, and provide better comfort, year-round.

*NISTIR 7238 U.S. Department of Energy, June 2005, by S.J. Emmerich, T. McDowell, and W. Ains.

Fact Check: Quote falsely attributed to C.S. Lewis on “fear of getting sick”

Users on social media are sharing a quote misattributed to C.S. Lewis that describes “the fear of getting sick” and its effects, suggesting that the British writer prophesied the COVID-19 pandemic. However, there is no evidence Lewis ever wrote these words.

Reuters Fact Check. REUTERS/Axel Schmidt

The alleged quote begins “And how did you manage to bring so many souls to hell at that time? -Because of fear (…) Fear of getting sick.” The exchange continues “they had no human contact for days and days”, “they lost their jobs, spent all their savings” and “they did not leave their house, did not walk, did not visit their relatives.”

One version of the claim ( here ) alleges the quote appears in Lewis’ “The Screwtape Letters”, published in 1942. It consists of a set of letters from a devil, Screwtape, to his nephew, Wormwood, in which Lewis examines theological issues related to temptation ( here ).

The exchange presented in this claim does not appear in the book ( here ) .

Other iterations (here, here , here and here) attribute the extract to a book by C.S. Lewis allegedly titled “The Devil’s Letters to His Nephew”. This is a direct translation from the Spanish edition of The Screwtape Letters (known in Spanish as “Cartas del Diablo a su sobrino”) ( amzn.to/2WbiyS3 )

Professor Joel Heck of Concordia University Texas, author of four books on C.S. Lewis, told Reuters these words were not written by the author. “It’s not Lewis. The theology [apparently Christian] fits Lewis, and the language sounds a bit Screwtapian, so it lends itself to believability,” Heck said in an email.

William O’Flaherty, a researcher of quotations falsely attributed to C. S. Lewis, also debunked this quote here .

The Reuters Fact Check team has previously debunked another quote misattributed to Lewis, who is best known as the author of “The Chronicles of Narnia” here .

VERDICT

False. C.S. Lewis did not write the “prophetic” words attributed to him in the post.

This article was produced by the Reuters Fact Check team. Read more about our work to fact-check social media posts here

Bulletin Board Hacks to Save Your Sanity

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Ok… I love bulletin boards. I do. But, maybe it’s more like a love/hate relationship. They brighten a room like nothing else can. My old room had HUGE bulletin boards. It allowed for so much creativity. I had a few that I kept the same all year, then I had a few that I would change seasonally. This seemed to be a good balance.

Now, at my new school, I don’t have such an abundance of bulletin board space to fill. I also don’t seem to have an abundance of energy to expend on filling said bulletin boards (I think I am getting old… either that, or my toddler is sucking away my energy…).

But whether you’re full of energy, or dragging a little bit like me, no one likes to waste time. We teachers don’t need to spend more time at school than we need to.

Right?

RIGHT.

So, here are a few hacks to help you save your sanity on your bulletin boards!

Bulletin Board Hack 1: Use Fabric on Your Bulletin Board

First up, your base. It’s all about that base!

I’m not sure where I picked up this hack… but, it is a total GAME.CHANGER. And I’m not just saying that!

Use fabric instead of paper to cover your boards. This little hack will save you YEARS of a headache. Measure once, cut, staple and done. Fabric doesn’t fade like paper. Doesn’t rip or tear. When you change your content – month to month, or year to year – you don’t have to worry about the background. Chances are, it’s in good shape. I like to use a fine print fabric base, but large prints can be fun too! I’ve found some great bargains on fabric in the clearance sections of Walmart and Hobby Lobby.

If you’re really into the black chalkboard look, I suggest using black felt. It is a heavier weight fabric and a little more pricey, but the payoff is worth it. That black will stay black for years to come! I had it on my large word wall for 6 years in my old classroom.

Ok… the second hack…

Bulletin Board Hack #2: Double the Border

Double, or even triple, your border. If Melanie from SchoolGirl Style has taught us anything about bulletin board style, it is to layer your bulletin board border. This not only adds visual interest, but it also takes up visual space. This makes it so you don’t have to put as much on the board. I call that a teacher win!

Layering border can be a little tricky… but, Maria from KinderCraze has your back. She shared this genius bulletin border hack for the perfectly layered border.

Just be warned… doing this will commit your borders to be layered like that FOREVER.

Don’t be afraid to get creative with layering your border! Mix different edges to create a fun look. I love straight-edged borders with a fun scallop! Click to see some of my favorite borders HERE!

On to the next hack…

Bulletin Board Hack #3: Never (

EVER!) Cut Your Border…EVER!

Serious here, folks! Listen to me – don’t cut your borders! If you like to change borders more than once a year, or you plan to use those border pieces for more than one board, don’t trim your pieces!

Just leave them at their 3-foot length, and layer as needed. It can be a little trickier with scalloped borders, but I line up the edges as much as I can, then fold or tuck the excess down. This allows you to keep your pieces intact and able to be used later for different boards without having to piece together a whole bunch of smaller pieces (which I can’t stand, btw- the patterns NEVER match up properly! Virgo problems…).

Bulletin Board Hack #4: Layer Over Top

This next hack is for the *slightly* lazy teacher… like me *cough*…

Ok… maybe lazy isn’t the right word for this time-saving hack. “Efficient” is a better word! This is for those of us teachers who don’t want to spend extra time doing things like taking down a border just to put it up again the next year, or the next time.

Let me explain. Instead of taking down your border every time you need to change the look, just layer a new border over top and staple. Now you can cover the old one without wasting time taking it down, putting it away, and all that junk.

Efficient.

I did this for years with my calendar board. I liked to change the border depending on the season. So instead of completely redoing the border EVERY.SINGLE.MONTH, I’d just staple it right over the old stuff. The best part? When you’re ready to return to an older border, just peel back the layers to reveal the original one. BOOM. No re-stapling, no positioning. It’s already done for you!

Here are a few disclaimers on this bulletin board hack:

  1. It is best used with same-edged borders. If you start with straight, you can only layer on straight. Scallop with scallop, etc.
  2. You can only layer about 4 borders before your staples start having issues. So, umm… don’t try to layer too many borders on top of each other. Eventually, you’ll have to clear the borders out and start again, but at least you’re not having to do that every time you change!
  3. This is assuming you are already doing hack number one… So, all you need to change is the actual border itself, not the background.

Ok, this next hack is for the perfectionist bulletin board folks.

Bulletin Board Hack #5: Tack It in Place

Setting up a board? Use tacks! Tack all your letters and pieces and step back to take a look. This is perfect for large boards, or boards that need to be straight and stuff, like a word wall. If you tack up your pieces, you can easily move them if they’re not quite right. Once you’ve approved the placement, don’t forget to staple in place.

Here’s my word wall for my new second-grade classroom…

You can see at the top, I’ve already “approved” the pieces and stapled, but my second row still needed a little adjusting. Now, I can just move those pieces slightly up or down to make them perfect

Bulletin Board Hack #6: Take it Outside the Lines

Now, the teacher part of me says… always color inside the lines. But, bulletin boards are the space to get crafty and creative.

So, live a little! Go outside the lines! This little hack can help create visual interest, but also helps to fill in space. Too much white wall is boring, not engaging… but taking your bulletin board outside the actual board? Magic!

Seriously, look how BIG this small board looks. Disclaimer: I would totally link to the creator of this, but the website name it is found on is questionable… so, umm… you can click the pic to find it on Pinterest.

This next hack is all about the board itself… or the lack thereof.

Bulletin Board Hack #7: Re-Imagine Your Bulletin Board

It seems like the newer schools are lacking bulletin board space. My new school has barely any compared to my old school, which was built about 10 years before. I also visited a classroom of a friend who had floor to ceiling bulletin boards, and her school was built in the 70’s… so, yeah…

If you lack bulletin board space, re-think your space. Even something as simple as a clothesline or a tack strip can turn an unusable space into a display space!

 This is a tack strip outside my classroom.

Another favorite non-traditional display space? Classroom blinds!

Click the pictures to read more about these activities.

The perfect space to display student work! Just use paper clips…

Keep the paperclips up all year, then you just change out the work ever so often.

Don’t be afraid to re-think everyday items to use as a display space. This board is actually garden lattice that I covered with fabric and added a border…

To mount it to our concrete block, the head custodian drilled holes into the concrete block, and I used screws to keep it in place. A much less damaging alternative are these command velcro strips.

Don’t let their size fool you. These puppies are STRONG! Want to see another DIY bulletin board? Check out this post!

You can also use a normal classroom surface like a whiteboard as a display board…

This last hack I have to share with you is probably my favorite. Anytime I can get someone else to do the work for me, I feel like I’ve gained my time back.

Speaking of getting creative, check out this post on creative storage solutions for teachers!

Bulletin Board Hack #8: Make it About the Kids

What better people to do the work than those cuties in your classroom? Make the content on your boards be about your students. Pictures, classroom work, student of the week… it will help create ownership in the classroom!

Use their pictures in a fun way…

So cute!

No matter what you decide, using student work to decorate your classroom will never steer you wrong! So, let’s go forth and create wonderful boards that don’t drive us bonkers!

Well… I hope you walk away from this post full of bulletin board inspiration and ideas for cutting down on the time you spend creating and changing them!

So, what are some other bulletin board hacks? Share your tips below in the comments!

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Staple for corrugated cardboard – order in Moscow at competitive prices

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Used for stitching corrugated cardboard packaging. It is produced in several standard sizes, for pneumatic and mechanical tools. The most common sizes used in packaging are staples 35×18, 10×10 (73×10), 12×10.

It is important to buy the right staples for the stapler, because the operation of the device itself directly depends on the quality of the staples. The most common packaging for finished products is a corrugated cardboard box. This is largely due to the low price, high strength and lightness.

Staples for construction staplers are used for reliable assembly of cardboard boxes, corrugated cardboard. With the help of staples, the bottom, sides are fastened, or after placing the goods in the box, the top of the package is fastened.

Beneficial use when packing construction staples:

  1. With the help of an automatic stapler, the layers of cardboard are quickly connected (3 stitches per second). A cardboard box is produced in a very short time.
  2. Such a connection is much cheaper than strapping with packaging tapes or shrink wrap due to the low cost of the stapler staple.
  3. Strong connection with a staple of all layers of cardboard, provides the necessary stability and rigidity of the container during transportation and storage.
  4. Reliable protection against unauthorized access. A stapled box cannot be opened without visible damage to the packaging.
  5. Such a connection is not afraid of humidity, temperature differences and dust.
  6. Aesthetic and attractive appearance of staples, informational and advertising inscriptions on the packaging are visible.
  7. Fastening corrugated cardboard with a staple is more reliable than fastening with adhesive tape (packaging adhesive tape).

Instructions for recycling waste paper in our Ecocenter

See our visual guide to the main types of waste paper that we encounter every day, which we have prepared together with mosvolonter.ru

According to the rules of “Assembly”, we divide waste paper into 9 categories . How to understand and sort them correctly? Let’s get acquainted with those types of pulp and paper products that need to be folded with their own kind and not mixed between each other.For each of the following types of waste paper, we have a separate big bag or container:

White printer paper with b / w printing – it is permissible if such paper has inscriptions with a pen, highlighter, “blue” seal of the organization. Before submitting, check that the paper is free of tape, files, plastic covers and large metal springs and staples. (with color printing – mixed)

Bushings are dense cylindrical products that serve as a basis for napkins and toilet paper, adhesive tape.Washable sleeves are not accepted, they consist of a different material – just rinse them off.

Pulpercarton is a special type of cardboard from which egg cassettes, various cradles, supports and supports for coffee cups are made by pressing the paper pulp into molds.

Kraft paper is brown packaging and printing paper. This also includes kraft paper bags of any colors and with a seal (not to be confused with gift, laminated), remove rope and plastic handles from bags and other non-paper elements

Corrugated cardboard (three-layer) – various cardboard boxes are made of it, it can be identified by the presence of a corrugated layer inside.
Boxes need to be flattened, the easiest way is to stack them and tie them with string. Scotch tape must be removed and not used to pack the stacks. Cardboard greasy and with food debris, for example, pizza boxes, is not accepted (you can cut out and return uncontaminated parts).

Composite packaging , consisting of layers of paper, plastic and sometimes foil (TetraPak, PurePak, SIG and others). Hand over clean from the inside, cut open, the necks do not need to be removed, and the lids can be handed over to the “good” ones.

“Paper” cups – composed of paper and a polyethylene layer. They are taken exclusively in pure and dry form.

Receipts – practically free of cellulose and coated with a special solution for thermal printing. They are accepted at eco-centers for manual processing into postcard paper. Accepted in the zone of rare factions.

These 8 types are collected separately from us, these are the requirements of processing enterprises – this allows you to create secondary products of higher quality, using waste materials of different quality for different purposes.But there are many types of paper and cardboard that do not fall into the categories above, what to do with them? They are sent to the last category, “mix” or in the professional slang of waste paper collectors is “assembly” (yes)

The material was prepared within the framework of the #VseVsborku program, which is implemented with the support of the Presidential Grants Fund.

# Presidential Grant Fund # FPG

Description of the Battle Banner of TAII – Tula Artillery Engineering Institute

Description of the Battle Banner of the Tula Artillery Engineering Institute was developed in accordance with the Decree of the President of the Russian Federation dated December 18, 2006 No. 1422 “On the Battle Banner of a military unit” and approved by the Chief of the Military Heraldic Service of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation – the chief military herald master.

The Battle Banner is a banner complex, which includes a double-sided cloth, order ribbons, a shaft, a pommel, a bracket, an undercut, a braid with tassels, banner nails, a pantaler, assistants’ sling and a banner cover:

Battle Banner of the Tula Artillery Engineering Institute

  • double-sided cloth – the main part of the banner, bearing the main heraldic load. Square with a side length of 130 cm and a margin for fastening to the shaft.Made from wet silk fabric;
  • Order ribbons – made of silk moire ribbon with the color of the ribbon of the corresponding order. The ribbons are tied with a 20 cm bow with two horizontal beams. The bow knot is fastened in the center with a gold-colored metal block with a hole (Ø = 8 mm). The ends of the ribbon are trimmed with golden fringes on both sides;
  • Pole – a wooden pole 270 cm long, 40 mm in diameter, consisting of two equal halves, connected in the middle with a specially designed twisting metal sleeve that allows the pole to withstand a large lateral load.In the upper part of the shaft there is a special conical protrusion for attaching the pommel. Manufacturing material – beech;
  • pommel – a metal figure in the form of a slotted spear with a relief image of the main figure of the state emblem of the Russian Federation. Top height 20 cm. Made of chrome-plated brass;
  • bracket – is a metal (brass) plate with a galvanized chrome plating of 50×125 mm in size, rolled into a cut cylinder, with an inner diameter of 40 mm.Holes are drilled in the corners of the plate for fastening the bracket to the shaft. An inscription with the name of the institute, the date of its foundation, with the names of the TAII awards and the dates of their presentation is engraved on the bracket;
  • underflow – conical support with chrome plated brass;
  • braid with tassels – gray-silver jacquard weave ribbon. The edges of the ribbon are edged with woven black and orange threads. The ends of the braid are sealed in the form of a rolled tube in a tassel made of silver threads (metallized) and woven from threads of black and orange colors.Silver threads are located outside the brush, black and orange – inside;
  • banner nails – short nails with a wide decorative head;
  • pantaler – a banner sling for wearing a battle banner. Consists of a long and short shoulder straps and a leather glass attached on a leather tongue. Belts are made of two layers of tarpaulin. The bottom layer is covered with orange silk fabric. The top layer is covered with an orange silk fabric, on both sides of which there are two longitudinal black stripes, each 2 cm wide.Between the black stripes there is a 2.5 cm wide golden lace pattern. The pattern is zigzag (90 ° angle). The edges of the pantalera are edged with a 0.5 cm wide golden galloon. A 2.5 cm wide saddle leather strap is attached to a long belt on the reverse side, which is threaded into a leather lining on the shoulder. A two-layer leather tongue with a molded leather glass is attached to a short strap;
  • Banner’s assistant’s sling – the design is the same as the pantaler, but without a leather glass, with a golden brush;
  • banner cover – made of khaki tarpaulin fabric.It has the shape of a long cylinder. At both ends of the cover there are braces with a nylon cord pulled through. In addition, at both ends of the cover there are cuts 15 cm long. When put on a battle banner twisted around the shaft, it is tightened with cords at the base of the pommel and in the middle of the shaft.

During transportation, the banner complex is placed in a special wooden case equipped with figured seats for all elements of the complex.

On the front and back sides of the panel there is a straight, equal-pointed white cross with widening ends with a black border and orange corners between the ends of the cross, the corners are equally divided by a black stripe.Border and strip width – 2.5 cm.

On the obverse of the Battle Banner, in the center of the cross, there is a round red medallion framed with a silvery laurel wreath with a fluttering ribbon at the bottom. In the medallion – the main figure of the State Emblem of the Russian Federation : a silvery eagle, raising its spread wings up. The eagle is crowned with two small crowns and one large crown connected by a ribbon. In the right paw of the eagle is the scepter, in the left is the orb.On the eagle’s chest, in a red shield, there is a silvery rider in a blue cloak on a silvery horse, striking with a silvery spear a black dragon overturned on its back, trampled by a horse.

On the reverse side of the Battle Banner, in the center of the cross, there is a round red medallion framed with a silvery laurel wreath with a fluttering ribbon at the bottom. In the upper part of the wreath is the emblem of the Armed Forces of the Russian Federation: a silvery double-headed eagle with outstretched wings, holding a sword in its right paw, and a laurel wreath in its left.On the eagle’s chest there is a shield topped with a crown. On a shield on a red field – a rider, striking a dragon with a spear. In the medallion – the banner (small) emblem of the Tula Artillery Engineering Institute : the image of the coat of arms (a horizontally laid silver rifle barrel on two silver diagonally crossed blades with points downward, with two gold hammers, one at the top and bottom) on a red field in a golden glow resting on diagonally crossed silver cannons with seven cannonballs underneath.

In the corners of the obverse and reverse sides of the Battle Banner cloth there are round medallions framed with silvery laurel wreaths with fluttering ribbons in the lower part. In medallions – small emblem of the Main Missile and Artillery Directorate : a silvery image in the form of two crossed cannons above a pyramid made of cannonballs.

When presented to the Institute of the Battle Banner, it was issued Diploma of the President of the Russian Federation to the Battle Banner .

Doors at the front or rear do not open from the outside, TPI 2020004/6

Check the flexible rod for twisting (see Fig. 1) and for improper fixation on the support bracket (see Fig. 2).

If the flexible rod is twisted or not correctly attached / secured to the bracket, proceed as follows:

Remove the bracket according to ⇒ Repair instructions.

Correctly fix / fasten the flexible rod to the bracket (in Fig.3 shows the flex rod on the shackle correctly / secured).

Note: If it is not possible to secure / secure the flexible rod to the bracket correctly, check which component is causing the malfunction. Replace the flexible rod or support bracket accordingly.

Fig. 3

Install the support bracket as follows [in Fig.4-7 shows the rear right door, on the other door (s) proceed in the same way]:

Initial position: The support bracket is not removed from the door, but hangs down, as shown in fig. 4.

Note: Make sure that the flexible rod is not twisted again during installation. The inscription on the flexible rod must be read evenly, without twisting (see Fig. 1).

Fig. 4

Grasp the bracket with your left hand (see.rice. 5).

Fig. 5

Turn the bracket clockwise upwards (see Fig. 6).

Fig. 6

Turn the bracket further clockwise to the installation position (see Fig. 7 and 8).

Fig.7

Fig. 8

Fasten the bracket with the fixing screw on the door – tightening torque 1 Nm .

Note: Once again make sure that the flexible rod is not twisted during installation. The inscription on the flexible rod must be read evenly, without twisting (see Fig. 1).

Close the door and check its operation (locking / unlocking):

– If the door opens freely from the outside, no further repairs are required.

Sours: https://theshopcity.com/about-all/staples-lettering-numbers-letters-stencils-staples-ca.html

Plastic Stencils Letters And Numbers

New Contact Listing

Frequently Asked Questions

How big are the letters on a stencil?

Our Alphabet and Number Stencils range from 1/2" letters to 48" letters. We have 35 different fonts from simple Block and Arial to artistic Old English and Script style fonts. These are professional stencil sets with extra letters and numbers to make them easier and quicker to use. Letter and number sets below 2 inches: come on a single page.

How big are plastic stencils for wall art?

. 5 inch Letter Stencils Kit, Alphabet Art Craft Stencils, Reusable Plastic Letters and Numbers Stencil Set for Wood, Wall, Fabric, Rock, Chalkboard, Signage and DIY Art Projects (White, 36 Pcs). . . . Only 10 left in stock - order soon.

What can I do with stencils at Office Depot?

Create eye-catching posters and signs or decorate scrapbooks with letter- and number-shaped stencils and stickers. Add some shine with foil letter stickers or ensure that your hand-painted letters are straight and accurate.

What kind of stencils can I use to paint on wood?

Large Letter Stencils for Painting On Wood, 6 Inch Alphabet Number Stencils Reusable Plastic Art Craft Letter Templates With 2 Pcs Brushes for Drawing On Canvas Paper Fabric Floor Wall Rock Chalkboard .

Sours: https://www.webcontactus.com/plastic-stencils-letters-and-numbers/
  1. Dell tablet detachable keyboard
  2. Raspberry pi 4 freezes after a while
  3. Workhorse auto park brake parts

While everyone would like to have flawless handwriting, only some people are blessed. However, you don’t need greeting card-worthy calligraphy abilities to work on DIY projects. Simple alphabet stencils are a great crafting solution, helping to create stunning signs, stationery and banners with little effort.

Alphabet stencils may be a classroom staple, but they have plenty of home DIY applications as well. You can use small stencils with pencils, markers and pens to create precise lettering on your crafts. And there are larger stencils available for spray paint.

You can purchase stencils with simple writing and others with a more decorative style. If you’re big into DIY projects, you might consider keeping multiple types of stencils on hand. The more you have, the more you can create.

To get you started on your summer DIY projects, here are some of the best alphabet stencils for all types of crafting.

 

1. NABLUE Plastic Alphabet Stencils

These alphabet stencils are made of non-toxic PET plastic and measure 10.3 x 6.9 inches. You’ll receive eight stencils with your order, each with a different lettering style. All of the letters are less than one inch tall. The smaller size of the stencils is ideal for use with pencils, thin markers, paint and pens. This product is lightweight and durable, and the edges are smooth.

Pros: The stencil sheets are durable and flexible, so kids can use them safely. You can reuse the sheets multiple times.

Cons: The plastic may feel flimsy, so you’ll need to be gentle when tracing. The letters may be too large to use in small journals or cards.

alphabet stencilAmazon

2. Mr. Pen Alphabet Stencils

This set of alphabet stencils includes five sturdy sheets, all featuring characters in different sizes. Each sheet is a vibrant color. The PET stencils have raised ribs to prevent slips and smudges, making them a great option for kids. Keep in mind that the letters are narrow, so it’s best to use standard or colored pencils. The sheets are also one solid piece, and you won’t be able to separate the letters.

Pros: The set includes a variety of letter sizes, so you can use them for a variety of projects. The sturdy sheets won’t break easily.

Cons: You won’t be able to use paint with these stencils. The smallest set of letters may be tricky to trace.

alphabet stencilAmazon

3. DURO Oil Board Stencil Set

If you’re painting a sign or T-shirt, these large letter stencils will get the job done. You can purchase this stencil set in one through nine-inch sizes. Each letter is separate, so you can easily plan out your projects. The stencils are made of oil board, which is sturdy enough to reuse. This set includes capital letters, numbers zero through nine and symbols.

Pros: There isn’t excess space around the letters, so you can line them up to make a word. You can purchase sets in a wide range of sizes.

Cons: These stencils may have a strong chemical smell initially. The stencils might not all be the same size. The oil board isn’t as sturdy as plastic.

alphabet stencilsAmazon

4. Westcott Letter Stenciling Guides

This set of alphabet stencils includes letters in four sizes, ranging from one-eighth to one-fourth of an inch. The smaller two stencils include both lowercase and uppercase letters, while the large two only include uppercase. All include numbers zero through nine, while only three include symbols. Each stencil sheet has raised ribs to prevent smudging. Sharp pencils and fine-tip markers work best with these products.

Pros: The stencils make it easy to write clean letters. The plastic is sturdy enough for kids to use.

Cons: The smallest stencil might be too small for most crafts. You won’t be able to cut out the individual letters.

alphabet stencilAmazon

5. Acme Alphabet Stencils

If you’re painting a sign, these Angelina script alphabet stencils are a great option. Each stencil includes two letters and symbols, and the package will include 100 stencils. You can purchase this set with four or six-inch letters. The stencils are made of durable plastic, so you can reuse them for all of your indoor and outdoor projects.

Pros: The font is a fun alternative to typical serif alphabet stencils. The stencils are wide enough to use with paint, chalk and markers.

Cons: The letter sizes might not be consistent. The stencil pack only includes uppercase letters.

alphabet stencilAmazon
Sours: https://spy.com/articles/hacks/diy/best-alphabet-stencils-266478/
How To: Hand Lettering With Stencils

Introduction: How to Make XXL Street Stencils & Get Away WIth It

This instructable will show you how to cover 640 Square feet of advertising with giant block letters in less than 3 hours in high traffic areas - all during the day. By using clear plastic stencils and painting the whole wall black, this technique minimizes the amount of time one would look suspicious, allowing the writer to work during the day on a large scale.

Why Make an Instructable?
In 2000 I did a project to both cover these ads and, with luck, get the neighborhood to think about why ads filled our public spaces as opposed to anything else more productive. I know I haven't exhausted the potential of this technique, and so I pass it on to you to put to use and improve on.

Background:
What's wild posting? If you live in an urban area you've probably seen poster sized advertisements on the streets. These wheatpasted "wild postings" * are often illegally placed on construction site barricades, building facades, in alleyways, and on assorted buildings in order for big business to reach urban demographics (like you!). Companies win by putting their products in the face of hip, urban consumers at the expense of alternative uses for public space - such as murals, street art, community boards, or just plain old architecture. (see Banksy's The Joy Of Not Being Sold Anything)

These top-down autocratic messages designed to persuade the public just become a default part of city life. The idea of something more democratic or of community interest in it's place becomes hard to even imagine.

Step 1: Gather Materials

Neccessary Materials:
1. Large Ruler (36+ inches) or straight stick
2. Measuring tape at least 8 feet long.
3. Level
4. Permanent Marker - Sharpie, Marks-A-Lot, etc.
5. Construction/Agricultural Grade Plastic Sheeting. Clear. 3 or 4mil thickness should work. Usually sold in 10x100 ft rolls at hardware stores. (You can use the left overs from 2003's [biological attack warning.)
6. Manual Staple Gun
7. Roll of twine or string.
8. Black latex housepaint - a few gallons depending on how big your wall is. Buy extra, this stuff is handy.
9. Canvas drop cloth - makes you look more legit.
10. Paint Rollers, and stick
11. Foam Brushes
12. Light colored latex paint (for outlining letters)

Helpful Materials
1. Computer and printer
2. transparency sheets that work in said printer
3. overhead projector (lcd projector would work too)
4. Right angle
5. Painter's costume (overalls, painter's cap, and other paint splattered clothing)
6. Orange cones

Step 2: Scope Out Some Sites

1. Find some sites with wheatpasted ads.
2. Measure out the dimensions and make a note.
- many construction barriers are 8ft high, because they are built with sheets of 4x8 plywood. If you don't have a meauring tape you can count the sheets of plywood and determine the length.
- Poster advertising is usually a uniform size. If you know the width and height of one poster, you can often deduce the width and height of the whole wall by counting out the posters.
3. Take a digital photo if you can.
4. Watch the wall for at least 2 weeks. The posters will be replaced on a semi-regular basis. If you can determine when they cycle through, you can make sure your piece stays up as long as possible. note: I learned this the hard way when one of my larger works was covered with ads after just 7 hours.

You'll want to find more than one location. These locations are often temporary, construction barriers especially. I've planned on doing a wall, only to have it disappear days before I was ready.

Step 3: Plan Your Piece

Now that you know the dimensions of your wall, you can plan your piece.

The Message
This part is up to you and involves many factors. I offer some of these questions as starting points:
- What do you want to say that thousands of people will read each day?
- How can you involve your audience in the making of the message?
- What message will do the most good in that area?
- Will the message get attention or be ignored?
- Is the message in terms people will understand?
- What are your intended consequences and how can you maximize them?
- What are possible unintended consequences and how can you minimize them?
- Remember that the "fill" of your letters will be the ads, so incorporate that into your concept.

More starting points from the Anti-Advertising Agency website.

how could you turn this space into something interesting and meaningful?

Step 4: Blueprint Your Design

The Blueprint
I've found that clean, sharp font-like letters get people to pay attention. If the letters don't "look like graffiti" then in the popular mind, perhaps they are supposed to be there? You can at least get people to slow down and read until they figure out what's happening.

So, if you're going to reproduce a font for an 8 foot tall wall, how is that done? How tall and wide should you make each letter? How much space in between each letter?

You have 2 options
1. Create your own font
2. Use a font from your computer

(I'm only going to deal with option 2 in this instructable. Maybe I'll do option 1 in the future.)

Mocking up your design
I'm going to demonstrate this in an open-source alternative to Illustrator called Inkscape. You can use whatever graphicseditor you prefer.

1. Launch Inkscape.
2. Open the Document Properties (Shift+Ctrl+D) and change the rulers from pixels to centimeters (see image)
3. Type your text in whatever font you like. Blocky fonts are easier to recreate large scale and read easier.
3. Change the object property measurement to centimeters (see image).
4. Resize your letters to fit the wall.
- I used a 1 foot : 1 Centimeter ratio, so a 7 foot tall letter (6 inch margin top and bottom on an 8 foot wall) would be 7 centimeters.

Step 5: Scale Up Your Letters

I have scaled up my letters using 2 methods. Using an overhead projector, and using math and a level.

Overhead Projector method
1. Print your letters out on transparency sheets.*
2. Project the letters against a wall with an overhead projector.
3. Hang the plastic sheeting against the wall where the projection lands.
4. Trace your letters with a permanent marker.
*Depending on the projector, you might need to print your original larger on the transparency in order for the letters to project 7 feet tall.

Math and Level method
1. Since you printed your letters to scale (1cm=1ft) you can draw a 1x1cm grid over the letters and use that as a guide for hand drawing your letters onto the plastic.
2. Plot key intersection points onto the plastic.
3. Use the level as a straight edge and to ensure you are drawing at right angles.
4. Note that "round" letters like S, O, C, Q, etc extend slightly above and below the "square" letters.
5. Don't worry if you are off by an inch or two, but try to be as exact as you reasonably can.

Cut out the letters.
On each plastic letter, note in permanent marker what letter it is and how far to space the next letter. Write the same note in several places on the plastic. When you're on the street, it's easier to find your notes than to roll out each 7 ft letter and see what it is.

Step 6: Overview of Painting Process

Gather up your materials and be sure to your drawings and a printout to refer to on site.

See the pictures for an overview of how it all works.

Step 7: Hanging Your Stencils

Run a line of twine along the top or bottom margin of your letters. This twine will serve as a guide to where to hang your stencils. In the case of this example, 6 from the bottom edge.

Check the notes you wrote on your stencils and hang the first letter using your staple gun. Remember your left and right margins. The level can come in handy as a guide, if your ground and walls are also level...

Step 8: Paint the Whole Wall Black & Pull Your Stencils.

1. Get your black paint, your rollers, and your drop cloth, and systematically paint the whole wall black. Cover your clear stencils too so the whole wall is black.

If anyone asks who you are or what your doing, say something like "just cleaning up" or "giving this wall a fresh coat".

2. Hang out and let the paint dry. Maybe grab some coffee or a snack. Get your hi-light color and foam brushes ready.

3. When the paint is dry, pull the stencils down and pack them up. Immediately start work on your outlines. If you have 2 people it goes pretty fast. If you hold the brush correctly, you can get a fairly uniform line weight.

That's it. Take pictures and send them here:
the Anti-Advertising Agency

Thanks...

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Letters staples stencils

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How To: Hand Lettering With Stencils

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Maybe someone just got up to drink or go to the toilet. The door closed quietly. I haven't moved yet, not knowing whether they both came out or not.



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